Know Your Relaxer
Posted: Wednesday, June 03, 2009
by Patsy Leblanc
kursh
Brazilian keratin treatment, also known as "escova progressiva" can cost as much as $600, claims to turn dry, frizzy hair into smooth silky hair for months. Stylists and clients must wear gas masks because of the formaldehyde, a cancer causing chemical.
Keratin is the protein that makes up hair. this protein is made by the linking together of specific amino acids in a specific way. This is how hair gets its strength.
Unfortunately, This is an industry that isn't regulated by the FDA, companies have gone crazy with the advertising. This is why it is important for professionals to have product knowledge.
Professionals know that the most effective way to use keratin, which is derived fron turkey feathers, cow hooves etc, is as an intensive conditioner to stop breakage, this is done by wrapping each stand of hair in microfibers.
Professionals also know that sodium hydroxide relaxers are preferred over calcium hydroxide. Calcium hydroxide is easy on the scalp, but harsh to the hair, and will cause severe breakage. Sodium hydroxide will cause burns to the scalp, but this is something that can be avoided, by applying a mild acid to the area that is burning. This is done because the relaxer is a strong alkali, and it can be neutralized by an acid.
A professional should also know the strength of the relaxer to be used, because this is determined by the texture of the hair(number of cuticle layers).
Thio relaxers cam be used to straighten hair, but the hair will not be as straight, because the protein bonds aren't broken, they are rearranged.
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